TRAVEL

AGING WELL IN SAMOA

By JERI CLAUSING

IT had been 24 years since my family left the remote South Pacific islands of Samoa, where I spent much of my childhood. But as I packed for my first trip back as an adult, I realized that I didn't feel the excited anticipation that usually accompanies a long-awaited vacation.
Instead, I was nervous about returning to the place that I loved so much as a child and young teenager -- hesitant to disturb memories of idyllic days spent exploring unspoiled reefs and beaches, hiking through the rain forests to waterfalls and never having to wear real shoes.

In the heart of Polynesia, a little more than halfway from Hawaii to New Zealand, the islands of Samoa are widely described as among the most beautiful in the South Pacific. Samoa is large, with a land area of about 1,097 square miles, most of which are on the two main islands of Upolu and Savaii. The people of Samoa, population 190,000, are poor, but the island is spotless and the simplest houses and traditional fales are in immaculate condition.
Samoa's mountainous volcanic islands combine rain forests, sandy beaches, and steep sea cliffs fringed by coral reefs. But to see such places, you have to rent a car and explore. There really aren't any tour buses or organized hiking or snorkeling.And, these islands are not for the unadventurous tourist. . . . There are few resort-style hotels on the islands,(with a beach and a pool).

So, when we decided to spend a few nights on the south side of Upolu island , we discovered Coconuts Beach Club, a small resort with a nice mix of Samoan-style fales and the luxury of big beds, air-conditioning and showers styled as lava-rock waterfalls. They have a gecko-shapedswimming pool overlooking the pristine beach, where you can snorkel or kayak. We were lazy, and enjoyed the chance to just lie around and eat the good food offered in the small restaurant. It was a wise decision!

Getting There : There are two weekly flights from Honolulu on Polynesian Air to Samoa. There are also non-stop flights from Los Angeles to Samoa on air New Zealand.

Where to Stay and Eat: Coconuts Beach Resort, Box 3684, Apia, Samoa, (685) 24849, fax (685) 20071, www .coconutsbeachclubsamoa.com, is a quiet beach-side resort on Upolu, over the mountains from downtown Apia. There are 15 regular rooms and 9 private comfortable bungalows built in the style of traditional beach fales but with privacy and air-conditioning, including two that are built out over the ocean with glass floors. Rates: $100 to $300 a night. Amenities include snorkeling, kayaking, a gecko-shaped pool, and a restaurant with wonderful fresh fish.E-Mail: reservations@coconuts.ws

Getting Around : To really explore the islands of Samoa, rent a car. However, cabs are fairly inexpensive on Samoa, and the drivers give tours for a negotiated price.

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